Mallorca - Should I Climb or Should I Swim

Posted by GTrefalt on January 12, 2016

You might know the song November Rain from Guns N' Roses. I guess that weather likes it but it mixed the months and used December instead of November. So, the only reasonable thing was to look around and find some sun. Smart proposal from Maja took us to Mallorca!

After rather exciting travels, where some almost missed a plane, while for others a plane was missing a schedule, we needed to "study" the topo.

We decided for a small crag Sa Font near Pollença where we were staying. According to the topo it should offer superb "slightly overhanging slabs for beginners". We were a bit suspicious about overhanging slabs but started bravely. At least till the first bolt ...

And when the slab became slightly more overhanging the fingers became slightly more tired. (Don't touch the picture with the mouse ... delicate balance ...)

After whole afternoon of trying, master slab climber showed us, how it needs to be done.

Ok, enough of these climbing goats, let's go to the beach and see if fish can also climb on Mallorca. Cala Magraner is an amazing climbing spot just at the beach. Some of the routes actually start above the water.

So, should I go for a swim or up the wall? We were facing some hard decisions that day.

Bojan chose the second option and he didn't regret it. He also didn't find any fish on the wall. Which was good, because we knew that we were the only masters of the rock here.

Battle of the day Alan vs the Overhang, guess who won at the end. Finally, the Overhang could not fight off Alan's superb technique.

Maja needed a refreshment after climbing on the hot rock. We boys were not so brave and were only watching from the distance.

You can't leave Mallorca without at least pretending that you are deep-water soloing.

When we saw this Es Pontàs arch we thought, with a bit of training we can climb the inner side of it next year. But we later learned that it has already been done by a screaming long-hair dude and that we do not have enough magnesia to do it anyway.

And at the end comes the best: "Goodbye!" from the Mallorca 2015 crew!

You have enjoyed the photos from Maja Bukovac and Bojan Zorko.

Climbing Around Chamonix

Posted by GTrefalt on August 12, 2014

I always find spending few days climbing in Chamonix a relaxation for my soul and a hard workout for my fingers. And this time was no exception!

First we tried out Chéserys. Nice slabs with beautiful views. Also the mountain goats like it!

One of the routes where our fingers were sweeting a lot was Santas Way (Un Père Noël pour Lucy), which is a beautiful 6a route. Highly recommended!

Since the Chéserys routes were a bit to short for our bodies hungy of climbing, we decided to do the Oraison, 5c, 450 m in Aiguille de la Glière. It turn out to be a great idea, it offered superb climbing!

Finding passages on the way down after 7 hours on the wall was also fun.

You can't leave Chamonix without a picture from the top of a granite needle. The Aiguillette d'Argentiere is a perfect place for a photo shoot :) First up ...

On the top ...

And slowly down ...

Aiguillette d'Argentière

Posted by GTrefalt on August 25, 2013

When you are looking at the peaks from the Chamonix valley, the first french word you learn is Aiguille - needle. Because there are countless needles around Chamonix in every shape and size. You have Aiguilles de Cahmonix (needles of Chamonix), Aiguille du Midi (noon needle), Aiguille Verte (green needle), Aiguille du Dru (thick needle) ..., the list is long. But you have also small needles there - aiguillettes, one of such is Aiguillette d'Argentière just above Argentière. When me and Sašo first saw the pictures of the needle we said we have to stand on the top of it! And we did!

Sašo - Cristo Redentor .

Together on top. There is just enough place - it is good that clibers are usually thin :)